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1. Measure and order
Work out the size of your area and the best roll width first (the calculator does both — artificial grass comes on wide rolls, so the right width means less waste). Then order the grass plus: weed membrane (a fabric sheet that stops weeds growing through) or foam underlay (a soft sheet that goes under the grass on hard surfaces), kiln-dried sand (very fine sand that has been dried so it pours easily), joining tape, outdoor glue, and galvanised U-pins (rust-proof metal pins shaped like a U). If you're laying on soil, you'll also need MOT type 1 (crushed stone that packs down hard — the base under almost every path and patio) and sharp sand (gritty sand used for levelling). A local builders' merchant sells both.
2. Clear and prepare the ground
On soil/old lawn: dig out the old grass and the soft top layer of soil, to around 50–75mm deep. You need that depth to fit the stone base in. On a hard surface (concrete, patio, decking): just clean it — no digging needed. A foam shockpad underlay goes straight down and cushions the grass.
3. Lay the sub-base (soil gardens only)
The sub-base is the layer of packed stone that sits under the grass. Spread the MOT type 1 and pack it down hard. Then add a thin layer of sharp sand on top and rake it level and firm — this fills the small gaps in the stone and gives a smooth surface. A whacker plate — a machine that pounds the ground flat, and hireable cheaply — makes this much easier. Take your time here: any bumps or soft spots in the base will show through the grass and never go away.
4. Membrane and grass
Lay the weed-control membrane over the base. Then roll out the grass. The pile is the fake grass blades — they all lean one way, a bit like fur. Make sure every piece leans the same way, or the joins will show as darker and lighter patches. Leave the grass for an hour or two so it relaxes flat, then trim the edges to fit.
5. Join, pin and infill
Where two pieces of grass meet, fold both edges back and lay joining tape along the join, shiny side down. Spread glue on the tape and press both edges down onto it. Keep the grass blades out of the glue — glued-down blades look flat and matted. Next, pin down all the outside edges with galvanised pins, one every 20–30cm. Finally, brush kiln-dried sand into the grass. This is the infill — it weighs the grass down and keeps the blades standing up.
6. The finishing brush
Brush the whole lawn with a stiff broom, working against the way the blades lean. This lifts the blades and works the sand down into the grass. That's it — a lawn that stays green all year with no mowing.
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Do I need a sub-base on a patio?
No. On a solid, level hard surface you skip the digging and the stone. A foam shockpad underlay goes down instead.
How long does it take?
A typical garden takes one to two days of DIY. The digging and the stone base take most of that time.
Do I really need sand infill?
For most lawns, yes. The sand weighs the grass down, protects the backing (the rubbery layer the blades are stitched into) and keeps the blades standing up.
Rather not do it yourself?
The ground work — the digging and the stone base — is 80% of the job. If that puts you off, get it priced. Post the job for free and local landscapers reply with quotes, so you can compare real prices against our estimate.
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